Jon's E34 525 2.9L Turbobuild

[Jon K]

The goal is to have a 8.3 - 8.4:1 CR M50 non vanos motor factory fresh or better. I already have the turbo setup alive and well, so now to extract as much power as possible I need a

low compression setup that is strong and fresh.

The Parts

Con Rod Bearing Set Std
Con Rod Bolts 53mm
Flywheel Bolt 12x50mm
Main Bearing Set Std
Oil Filter Kit Mahle
Oil Pressure Switch
Piston Ring Set Std 83.98mm
Timing Chain Guide Cam to Cam
Timing Chain Guide Crank to Ex. Cam
Timing Chain Guide Lower Crank Ex. Cam
Timing Chain Lower Crankshaft to Cam
Timing Chain Upper Cam to Cam
Valve Cover Grommet
Valve Stem Seal Set 7mm
Water Pump Plastic Impeller OE
ARP M50 Head Stud Kit
ARP M50 Main Stud Kit
VAC MLS Head Gasket 0.140"
Block/Lower Engine Gasket Set
Expansion Plug 45mm Freeze Plugs
Valve Cover Gasket
Spark Plug Hole Gasket

A detailed list can be viewed at This link.

-- Stock balanced pistons
-- Stock balanced rods
-- Stock polished crankshaft

All parts will be bead blasted or soda blasted. Majority of external parts will be powder coated, block powder coated or painted, head left alone.

Pics

Here is the motor, a '92 Non Vanos M50 from an E34 that had been wrecked. Purchased from a friend for $250 in Connecticut. Drove up and brought her home in the back of PT's truck:



We took it apart the night we got it home, and noticed how clean this engine was for being 200,000 miles deep in life and how there was no damage to any components. This engine had a

DIY turbo setup with a RRFPR and a T3/T04E in the former E34:



My parts were taken apart and stored in boxes/bags for about a 9 months - 1 year, until I could afford to start purchasing items to start rebuilding. Initially I only planned to do

rings and bearings and clean up the motor somewhat. Having met up with Jay and his convincing me/demonstration of how easy powdercoating is, I went nuts and decided to powder coat

anything/everything I could. Once I met Jim, a machinist at Jay's business, we went from doing a stock factory fresh rebuild to ARP head and main studs to fully balancing the bottom

end to polishing the crankshaft to god knows what else will come!

The first valve cover was done in a translucent gold finish:




It came out pretty well as you can see it looks great on the car:



But I had already powder coated a bunch of parts for this new motor and decided to do the other valve cover in silver, to match my parts. I got carried away with powder coating and

cleaning stuff but this is the end result:





Now that school is done (never more!) I took the time to focus on this engine as I really want to make power and push the thing to the limit once I have a fall back car. I ordered all

of the above parts in a couple phases, but the majority of the parts were collected about a month ago:



It was time to get serious with cleaning up the head and block so I could send them out to be machined.


The cleaned up cylinder head looks like:










Quite awesome if you ask me.

The head just came back from the machine shop and was confirmed flat so all they did was barely touch the surface of the head - has some nice machining in it that is sure to give a

good seal. I am not sure whether or not I'll be using the copper head gasket spray but I have purchased it just in case so last minute I am not scouring trying to find something

ridiculous like that.

Here is the head back from the machine shop - doesn't look much different. You can see there are new valve seals installed:

excuse cell phone pics




Today [7/7/2007] was spent up at Jay's lapping the valves into the head. I am retaining all of the original valves because they are perfectly fine and straight and just needed to be

cleaned up of carbon. The intake valves were a BREEZE to clean. Brushed them right up and they came out as shiny as new. The exhaust valves, however, were very stubborn (as one can

expect). We had originally tried soda blasting them and I was only marginally successful with that. I have read that you can bead blast the valve face but I don't want to risk

destroying the valve surface. Wire brushed them again, and it proved to be quite adequate in cleaning. There is still some carbon on the lower stem/flute of the valve (backside) on

the exhaust but it's sure to be more than fine. I couldn't justify $270 in new exhaust valves (not even including intake valves) and I have talked to many people who said using them

over again is safe - if they were bent there'd be no question as to what would have to happen. I don't have the money to rock aftermarket Ferrea valves or anything like, and so the

stockies will have to do - I am sure I won't be disappointed. The guides are very long and provide good wear characteristics (if any wear!) and so I am content with the valvetrain

setup.

Here we are after having cleaned up the valves:




You can see the exhaust valves have some discoloration of carbon that was once there - its just discoloration now. The actual carbon (chalky definite surface substance) is all gone.

They are smooth to the touch and you can see the original machining grooves that are a characteristic of the surface.

After the valves were cleaned up, I lapped them into the seats using Permatex valve lapping compound - it was coarser than the Clover compound that Jay had which aided in the

swiftness of completion - but was definitely not overly coarse. I read that a nice mid grade like the compound I hard purchased was the best to use and had the original valve seats

been re-cut, then I should use a series of lapping compounds. Valves seat very nicely and cleanly and are sure to pose no leaks - the seats were in immaculate condition as it was

based on the pics earlier in the thread.

Here are the valve seat surfaces after being lapped:




Shitty cell pic, but you can see the discolored flute of the valve, then a grey surface, and then a discolored section again. The grey section is where the valve seat meats the valve



Anyway, here are the pics:



Crankshaft is all cleaned up/polished - jim is going to polish the oil journals even more to insure no catching on the new bearings.




Block after hot tank and hone (stock hone for 84mm pistons) - will be powdercoated a high shine/bright silver.



Rods, dynamically balanced to one another both ends with pins, to insure correct bob weights and all



Pistons all balanced in and soda blasted clean of 200k miles of carbon - check out the condition! (the dirty spots are from letting the piston air dry from being washed with water -
The pistons are now ceramic coated with TechLine Cerakote CBC1 coating - was fairly painless, though
getting it to spray through one of various guns was a challenge. One piston was either not aluminum oxide
blasted enough or had some oil still on it, and it had a small spot that bubbled, and is going to be re-coated.
Otherwise, they came out real well!



All cleaned up:






This is the head before:








(sorry for soft pic the camera didn't want to focus on the puffy cylinder head... powder has a weird effect when not cured)

Once baked, this is what came out...

[Jon K]

Its hard to photograph the reflections from the head, but its a very near chrome effect, looks freaaaaaaking amazing if you ask me. Here are some more close up pics...






Once that was done I was super motivated to do the block. I don't recall anyone ever doing a silver block so I was really pumped to see the out come.

So, I originally intended to just coat the block over the factory finish - well, that didn't turn out to be a good idea because Jay noticed some crap buildup in corners even after

having the block hot tanked. So, that meant I needed to blast the block. Sooo, break out the high temp/high strength masking tape yet again, and prepare to bead blast the most awkward

thing in the world...



Pre- blasting...



Post- blasting - the blackish/brown stuff you see is the original factory baked on paint. Most if all of the grease/oil was blasted clean off.



Fuzzy block...

And then...







So after all that it was only like 1:30p so we still had more time!!!

On to the pistons...

So, the ceramic coating was done with the exception of one piston that bubbled... talked to the manufacturer and they said that the piston might have needed to out gas or perhaps it

was put in the oven before air drying, or too thick of application, etc., etc.

So, blasted the piston again with al oxide, which took the ceramic off with some time (good to know its really on there!). Re-coated the piston, let it air dry for more than ample

time this round, and presto it's done.

But more importantly, Jay helped spray the Dry Film Lubricant on - basically some sort of high temperature teflon coating for the side skirts. In a vacuum this will make more

horsepower but in reality it will definitely cut down on wear. It wasn't the easiest thing to apply but Jay is the skill there, I just aluminum oxide blast and mask - the first

application we had an issue on one or two pistons because, we think, the acetone used to clean the surface after blasting seemed to carry some of the adhesive down from the masking

tape and when sprayed with the DFL1 coating, it didn't sit properly and had runs. I blasted them over again and Jay sprayed it again, and it was good to go. Oh yeah masking on this

shit is really important if you decide to do it. I left about ooh about 3mm maybe down from the bottom ringland til where the teflon starts. This seemed to be the norm on all

commercial coating process pictures I could find, but also it made it easier and more practical when masking off the wrist pin area - nothing like trying to aluminum oxide blast a 2mm

sliver of area with masking tape on either side!

Anyway, we all know what the pistons looked like before but what the hell..



You can see how I masked the tops off (ceramic coated) and the wrist pin inset. I didn't want to coat the wristpin area because it would be quite hard to keep it linear.

Then, baked at 300F for 1 hr (I stayed til like 530 or 545 btw Jay, oh, and the cops did come)...



Nice and uniform!

And final picture, I swear..



There is the region I masked off. Looks really really good and uniform. To be honest I cannot really tell with my hand if its any more "slick" but I am not sure I am supposed to haha

especially with it dry. The manufacturer said when oil sits on it, it's crazy slick and that it will reduce wear and drag, and thus free power and durability. We'll see - same product

all the commercial places use though!

Ok that's the end of the updates.

Update - spent this evening putting the cylinder head together - sort of makes me hate having 24 valves, but then, it'll all be for the best

I used VHT assembly lube to lube the valve stems nicely. Used the custom machined dual valve spring compressor/installation tool jay made, and went just as planned - works great jay






Updatez!!!

Just got back from the shop w/ Jay. He put a 3.5" straight rear section on his exhaust its narly and extremely loud I love it Jay don't change it.

Anyway, I worked some on my motor. The bottom end is done and I got the pump in and the nut welded along with some other little stuff. The biggest issue is that I don't feel like

putting gross dirty bolts back in my new motor. So, I did as much as I could without using gross stuff and I am basically ordering all new hardware for things I think are important.

BUT, anyway, here are the pics. Hope you like it!



Can see the pad ground for balancing.























And you can see I forgot to powdercoat the upper timing cover and the crank pulley, so I did that. Crank pulley is hard to capture but its not the silver I used for the motor. Its

"Stainless Steel Grey" which looks very very cool (has an olive greenish tint...well... you've seen stainless before) and contrasts nicely to the block.

Don't worry about too much shiny. The engine bay has wrinkle black intercooler piping and valve cover, it will look awesome IMHO.

That's about it for now!
The exhaust valves don't have any texture on those discolored areas, I just coulsn't get the carbon stain/mark out with the brush wheel I used. The intake valves look brand new. The

valve are all hand lapped in (sigh!) and the seat is perfect.

[Jon K]

Updates

Made the downpipe yesterday before removing engine:







Its out!


Went relatively flawless today - pulled driveshaft, slave cylinder, removed more from up front (intake manifold and such) and then went under and undid the mounts and set up the cherry picker and she cam out the front nice and easy. I then separated the trans out of the bay.









After pulling that lump out I took the grinder to any and all randomly placed studs that used to hold down crap I don't have any more. All the nitrous and wiring from the sides is now lifted up - going to try and hide as much as I can or at least mount it down lower where its not so ugly. Going to power wash the bay next weekend I hope, and then paint it, and then we swap the engine in when it's done.

I probably should have held out but, i felt like buying something today. So, I went to the locally place extremepsi and picked 2 of these up:



I will try and measure - no promises.

Yeah the blocks look to have the necessary rib/reinforcements to keep the block from moving much. I will try and measure.

I took the radiator support up and used my newly acquired satin black powder coat - came out sick.




Then I went and painted the fuel tank with some enamel black stuff Jay had - it looks like it will dry very tough.

[Jon K]

Stupid other update - I had these guys in the polisher for about 2 or 3 days, pulled them out and I deem them "complete". I did a set for a friend, not sure if I posted those pics before so anyway, here they are.

These go on the valve cover and will be in plain site as I cannot run a plastic engine cover with my setup



New fresh UUC trans mounts came in and I pulled the aluminum cups out of the polisher so I figured I'd snap a pic!

The other parts are some shift linkage part and the brackets and crap that support the M50 manifold.



Got some more stuff @ lunch today. I love having a nice parts place so nearby to where I work.






1.2 bar base pressure :p That should give you an idea of what I expect to run.

Also bought some DEI wrap for the manifold and some other stuff.

If summit doesn't disappoint I should have some other goodies tonight when i get home.




Few more parts came today


AN vac/boost lines overkill?

Never!

A few updates!

I went up today and pulled the car out of the garage with my landrover and moved it across the street where our buddy (thanks chris!) let us use his water supply to pressure wash the engine bay. I degreased the crap out of everything and sprayed it clean. My ABS modulator is supposed to be silver?! Oh... haha. Anyway, it doesn't look clean in the cell phon pic but it definitely is. I am going to use Jays suggestions in the next week or so in order to get ready to paint it. It should turn out really good. Going to be black satin with matching powdercoated radiator support which I already posted!

Before:




After:




Here's the view all the ATL boys will see:






At least its pretty!


Enjoy

Nothing big - engine is at machine shop, doing the fuel rail this weekend, and then I think I have most if not all my AN fittings now. I changed a few things, my fuel sump to be especially. I am putting the pump in the rear bumper, it'll be interesting and cleaner. It requires 45 deg NPT fittings and 45 deg swivels though, as seen below. If anything needs 150 deg -10 fittings and -10 to 1/2 NPT straights let me know :p



All measured and ready to machine it up on Saturday!






You might notice the 7th fuel port there. It's a 1/8 NPT bung for fuel feed to nitrous system

Yeah I did - I measured a ross -6 an rail that is my friends for reference and basically superimposed the figures over onto paper and made this -10AN extrusion in SolidWorks.

Here is a pic comparing the two extrusions






Just for reference.

Update:

Today Jay and I (mostly Jay, thanks!) machined the fuel rail.

Here are the results:



You can see the 1/8NPT port we put in for nitrous feed directly later. it will make the plumbing so much more clean and efficient.






And what do you know, it fits!!

Except its a little close...



To the manifold mounts, but that's not a big deal I can sand that down if I need to keep it from rubbing (or who cares?) when we make the little hold downs later.


That's all for now.

[Jon K]

Couple more pics with the nitrous fitting in place






Ok so new for today --

Well it was like 18 degrees out luckily in the garage theres no wind and I had like 3 layers of clothes on so I wasn't that cold. However it was not fun!

I wanted to pain the bay, but Jay kept me down to earth - its too cold to paint, nothing is gonna stick and I will have to redo it. So I spent about 3 hrs with Scotch bright pads and lacquer thinner. my engine bay is fully fully degreased and down to primer in most areas. I actually brought up a roll if aluminum fuel and wrapped ALL my parts in the engine bay (harness, ABS unit, etc...) in aluminum for masking. It worked out so well! The camera battery was damn near dead and I had to struggle even to get the last pics posted here so I didn't bother grabbing a good quality aluminum foil pick, but use your imagination.






Then we had some pizzzzzza. I came back and knocked out this fuel pump mount. Its a stainless steel rectangle (size of pump) with a stainless steel extension down. Its fully welded together (over lapped on backside) and then pretty thoroughly welded to the car. The car being dirty made for some interesting challenges and the welds weren't award winning but it ain't going anywhere. It's welded across that rear bumper bar, two tacks inside the bar (backside) and then the vertical part to the right of the bump is welded to the vertical fuel tank support. It was quite attached with welds, but just in case the welds ever break I went and drilled a hole inside that 5/8" hole you see, and put a big M8 or M10 bolt and locking nut/washer. Should the welds fail, I'll still have the fuel pump in the car!



Then came the fuel lines - surprisingly -10 lines aren't so bad. -4 lines were a pain in the ass, or maybe I hadn't done them in a while and I was rusty. Either way, the -10 went together fairly well. I have the two feeds to a junction to 1 feed to the filter/pump. The lines are positioned so there is minimal "lift" on the pump, its mounted below the 1/2 level of the tank as per aeromotive instructions and the lines should provide some volume to further avoid starvation. They're positions so that forward motion should tend to force the weight of the fuel down and up. The tank has some sumping that will prevent starving while braking.



I should have got some pics from the front. I switched from 150deg fittings at the tank to 45's. This keeps the lines higher. You cannot see the lines or fittings from the front of the car looking under. Also the distance from the outlets to the pump inlet is about 6".

Oh, and yes the bumper fits :p I took the bumper on and off about 5 times today to make sure everything cleared.

And updates you shall get Chris!!!

I went out and bought (4) 500w halogen lamps. They worked awesome for heating the engine bay. I just finished masked off the exterior and some interior of the bay. Then I wiped it down with this prep-all stuff Jay said to use - worked out nice it took up all the sanding/lacquer residue. Then we used Eastwood Black Chassis satin black paint. The engine bay was then covered again for a while and it dries








and finally...



That's going to make a big difference once the car is together! Fresh clean black paint will make the motor and stuff stand out so much more!



Then we realized its Saturday and Jim should have finished assembling the motor so we went over to look and... HE DID!





Nice cross-hatching! Rings gapped for 30 psi + ~200 on nitrous





No more messing around!


Oh I almost forgot!

This puppy is going to be up for rent



Thanks everyone


Some more updates from today. The trans was atrocious I couldn't possibly put it back in my car with all the work I've been doing. So, first I wrapped any flange/seal/shaft that can't get stuff in/on it and took her over to the soda blaster. Here are some before pics:



Ew



EW. My slave cylinder failed right around 195k miles. So all the clutch dust that was in the housing then got wet with brake fluid. My clutch was slipping because of this. There was no way I could put this transmission back in in this condition.



Here it is ready to go into the soda blaster. This thing is MESSY. I get baking soda all over me and my hoodie is usually soaked. It sucks.



This is about 30 mins after blasting.



That would have been clean enough but I still had the ability to dry it off and throw it in the bead blaster so I did.



After bead blasting





All the seals/shafts preserved but cleaned.

And here she is ready to party!



I will post pics in a bit of the work jay and i did on the exhaust manifold. We got the 6 EGTs in. However I didn't have the head up at the shop, so it turns out I have to plug 2 maybe 3 of the EGTs and put them on the other side of my piping/manifold as they hit the head. No big deal though, I have more bungs for it.

Feeling better, not perfect, but better.

Mini update - Dave @ ICS ordered my HG for me and they got it in the mail yesterday and I received it tonight - that's service!




Custom bore and custom stud size with embossing.

And then one of my orders came in that contains some misc parts like clutch fork spring, some more new hardware for power steering pump and such, dowels for the block, blind plugs for the frame rails, new protective caps for the strut tops, and a new dipstick tube



Another order of parts should come tomorrow - then I go down to VAC on friday to pick up the oil pump upgraded, and we're ready to rock meh thinkz

The remainder of my parts came in - I think this is it! I pick up the VAC pump friday and the super cool things Friday, and I think I am good to go!!!!




Yes thats a new oil cap - i just felt like replacing everything that'll be visible.

Baller much?










I'd say so...

Thanks all for the comments - yeah its drawing near an end. I went down to the ghetto tonight to pick up the VAC oil pump @ VAC. It was sweet that Jay mailed my core pump from pottstown to philly - owe ya one man. Chris @ VAC was real nice and showed me around some and hooked me up with a pump they had in stock ready to party.





Took a personal day today to run some keys up to jayz and got some stuff done on mah whip.












-fuel feed done (hanging in pic, need to just make the 3' line to the rail)
-fpr mounted and setup
-all pulleys/accessories installed
-wired alternator and starter
-installed misc sensors on the car
-installed cams woooo!

So yeah, getting closer and closer.

[Jon K]

Updates in new sweden:

Nothing really to update that you can see. Manifold was opened up for a wastegate, cams are fully fully installed (chains, sprockets, etc), and we got the transmission linkage crap installed and replaced the shifter cup bushing thing and carrier bushing things etc. I learned somewhat how to weld aluminum, whew!







I'll finish TIG'ing it tomrrow sometime. Driveshaft in tomorrow and I hope to have my rad and intercooler support fabbed up tomorrow - we'll see!

quick update from new sweden

Got the intercooler in 100% and am now working on the radiator. I think I will need an E36 upper and maybe lower rad hose.







Ok gotta go make upper rad mounts (lower is done)

Yep as jay said we are running the rad behind the IC like stock, only 2.5 - 3.0" closer. This setup couldn't have worked out any more perfect.







The upper and lower rad support is pretty trick and worked out very very well.

I'll be running a 16" 2400 CFM pusher fan in front of the IC.

Another angle



Hahah good job bro








Jon sent these to me on AIM:




Updates: I had a dream.... and then I builded it....



Today I did:

Crank bolt torqued, oil drain line, wastegate line, upper rad hose, had to make bolts to mount my TB cable, powersteering hoses, oil level sensor, fuel tank sender bolt down, return line setup, [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]fuel[/COLOR][/COLOR] sender gaskets etc... the only thing, right now, that I know I need to do yet is lower rad hose (might be tricky), fan (ordered but...where is it?!), charge pipes (hoping someone can save me!), and [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]exhaust[/COLOR][/COLOR] (I f-d up and made it too low, so i have to redo it).

Here's how I had to get to the crank bolt




Looks like a lot missing but its just the rad and intercooler out - the design we came up with makes it so easy to remove! Everything comes right out the top. I put the belt on while I had it like this.

Got some parts thanks to Hung@ExtremePSI for crazy fast shipping! I ordered this Wednesday I think and he thought it'd take 2 weeks or so... well got an e-mail today (Friday) and wooo its here. Sucks though I am not going to start to install it until this upcoming week because my car is all together for our meet on Sunday :o



I'll probably be swapping for some rectange distribution blocks since the shower head is not too compact for an inline 6 (but a V8 and V6 they work good on)

[IMG]file:///C:/DOCUME%7E1/UserXP/LOCALS%7E1/Temp/moz-screenshot.jpg[/IMG]



Teaser




I am pretty happy with it I think. I thought about doing it on the underside of the manifold like sleeper look, but I dunno I think up top will be cool - if it doesn't work out I'll get another manifold and move it. I measured clearance from mani to hood and I should have more than enough room.

shes at Schimmel's shop waiting for charge pipes prob done monday or tuesday Bill says Wigginssss!

Here are some pics we snapped:





Those are not my wheels but shit, I need to buy them now!






I think its polished enough - may throw it in the polisher tomorrow night but I think I like it as it is.

This is what I ordered from Jegs - gotta cancel!


. I totally forgot I left my nitrous block in the polishing machine in the [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]basement[/COLOR][/COLOR]. Went down to see how it turned out - this is since this morning or last night I can't remember when I turned it on...






....

....


holy sh1t! __________________

wiggins on intercooler endtanks...



ZomG!







MoAr!



Picked the car up








Gonna powder coat the tubing tomorrow and start putting it back together.

Thanks vin but my hood is staying [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]stock[/COLOR][/COLOR] - not a fan of slits/vents/ducts/scoops/etc


Powder coated the charge piping today - looks good but waiting to put it in until I get some other stuff done/in.

Here is direct port nozzles thanks to Jay - I just got done installing them and very happy with how they turned out:






Got some pics of the coated piping - looks hot. Jay also made the hold downs to hold down this massive -10AN rail, I wanted to [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]counter[/COLOR][/COLOR] [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]sink[/COLOR][/COLOR] some button head screws to make it a little [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]cleaner[/COLOR][/COLOR] looking than the Ross Machine hold downs.






Couple pics, got my methanol fittings in - jay helped me decide to go with smaller line since there will be less pressure drop. the line is much larger than the orifice so I am not worried about inability to flow, it'll be a clean setup overall.












Ugh about 4 hrs into this Lines are done though!






Ok there are two reasons I did the lines as I did:

1) Less down time vs sending it out to our guy and having it all done
2) I thought about it more and it made sense that it'd be fine: reason below

If you look, you'll see the lines are not equal length with one another. You will notice that the lines are equal length in paired cylinders.

For instance, 1 and 6 are damn near equal (about 2mm shorter on #1), 2 and 5 are damn close, and 3 and 4 are just about perfect (#3 took me about 1 hr to perfect!). Whats my thinking? Well 1 and 6 are at opposite points of the cycle, so while #1 is intaking, #6 is [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]exhaust[/COLOR][/COLOR], and they're close to equal length so regardless which one is intaking it should be relatively equal. Cylinder 2 and 5 are the same way, when 2 is intaking 5 is exhausting and being equal it will take the same time regardless of which is firing, and the same with 3 and 4. Now I thought about "yeah ok but what about 1 vs 2 vs 3?" well what about it? We're talking uSecs here when releasing the gas @ 1000 psi with fuel probably around 70 psi. With the cylinder pairs damn near close it should be very very effective. Equal length is probably a big deal when running a ry shot high horsepower using the fuel injector for enrichment and maybe on a V8 where theres a lot of distance between any 2 cylinders. I think this should work out quite well (and I've seen how the supras do it hehe)

[Jon K]

Intake temp sensor is to the right of the TB opening

Turbo? What turbo?










Nothing crazy - should work well. The other will be for nitrous arm. __________________


Jay and I knocked out the new methanol injection block and I mounted that up. Good to go! Mounted nitrous solenoids and feed lines too - woo.





This just in! Car looks great and is all assembled:
















THE BAD NEWS: Jay and I don't feel comfortable knowing the head studs are oil passages and how little we bored them out, so I am pulling the head off and taking it to Jays next weekend to open up the bores

It'll be ok though because I can pull the head with the turbo and all on and just drill out the head 0.050 or 0.060 (the difference from the stock size small to large holes) and put her back down - theres no coolant or anything.

Just some pics



Man the head w/ the [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]exhaust [COLOR=blue ! important]manifold[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] + turbo was quite heavy.

So, car is all back together. Got oil pressure again. I need to order another intake [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]temp [COLOR=blue ! important]sensor[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] (dunno where mine went!) and get the plugs out of the O2 bungs - they refuse to come out (welded with them in so as to not warp the bung... maybe was a bad idea).

But anyway, did some wiring and stuff that had to be done. Also modified my front bumper for air holes.






My hole saw quit before I could get the last two holes in, but picture 2 more holes under the 3. Kinda cool I guess.

I also took some general pics since I felt like I was accomplished today haha. Once I get the wideband in and the intake temp sensor its [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]wok[/COLOR][/COLOR] and woll time. I don't want to crank w/o an intake temp sensor because it reads -40F open circuit... and that will seriously mess up fueling.











UGH FINAL STRETCH!

YouTube - First start of my 525i

YouTube - First start of my 525i

!!!!

First shot!

I was waiting on the IAT to come from DIY Autotune along with my EGT sensor. Well I was running the fuel pump checking for leaks anticipating it coming tomorrow when all of a sudden I hear "excuse me" hahaha . Turn around mail truck dude came down my driveway and I didn't notice. He left, I clipped the IAT in and grabbed camera and tripod. Grabbed a fire extinguisher (on the opposite side of the car closest to me..) and cranked.

THIS IS THE FIRST START THE CAR HAS SEEN!!!!!!

And yes there is smoke coming off the turbo/manifold/downpipe its just oil from ... everything haha.

[Jon K]

Welp as you know my motor was leaking oil. SO... head came off for the second time - getting good at it hehe.

Things just worked out this time around - pelican shipped the crank holding tool which made getting the crank [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]bolt[/COLOR][/COLOR] out (and putting it back in!) way easy! I will definitely get the right torque on it with this tool.

I also got more Hylomar and Permatex Super 300 mail order, along with a large thing of ARP Moly for the head studs.

But I also got:




along with




and VAC's 90mm studs (thanks for the tip streub).

Now we're working on getting hub centric, rim centric spacers made (gonna see if this one shop will just make them its a ***** to do a CNC job like that for a one-off)

Taking the timing cover up to Jays on sunday (thing popped right off nicely, and no [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]Roman[/COLOR][/COLOR] inserting the dowels didn't change anything unfortunately, still 0.0025" too high). Then it'll be going back on. I might use Sunday to powder coat some stuff again since I mucked it up installing/re-installing the head a few times. We'll see.

Welp its raining all day so I prob won't get to work on the car tonight... so I went and picked something up from Extreme PSI on lunch.




Woot - looks cool as hell.







Not too much to update - foots better, so thats a relief. I'll be able to get work done on tuesday when my parts come! Waiting on oil pan gasket and then I can throw it all back together!

In the mean time I went up to Jayz to give a little hand on his project and powder coat some stuff. I redid my [COLOR=blue ! important][COLOR=blue ! important]fuel [COLOR=blue ! important]rail[/COLOR][/COLOR][/COLOR] (formerly red) in translucent purple to match the new BOV, wastegate, wiggins clamps, etc. It took 3 times total of doing this - translucent powder is pretty hard to get right. It took me a couple times to get the former red color right. First the purple when way too thick and ran, then too thick again, then too thin.... and then jay suggested trying a second coat which normally I wouldn't try but having stripped powder three times already I went for it - worked awesome.



I also powder coated an aluminum M52TU block I have in order to make a coffee table.



Makin progress on the car I think - do the head tomorrow and I should be all down hill from there... I think. *knock on wood*

Ordered these though - at this stage of the game its more for fun/show, but I am sure I'll put some tires on the back that will require them sooner or later, so they're good to have around. Plus, I can fit them and get the correct spacer made and everything.









Welp - she's back together with oil in her. I'll probably go start it tomorrow. I am way way too hot today.



I do rito :



Final touches...

here is a little final touch until the next ... major final touch involving the intake side of the motor - may wait til after shes broken in but Jay is working on something that will be promising.

Anyway - thanks to jay and his metal brake and laser engraver... we made this:

[Sam Son]

not bad but it needs '95 skirts:p

[Bin_jammin]

Pfffffft all pictures and no details.